A colleague at work
recently departed for her first visit to Venice. Of the two of us, I can’t tell who was more
excited – possibly me! I put together a
suggested itinerary for her trip, and I’m eagerly awaiting her return to hear
about her experience of Venice.
So I’ve been doing (even
more than usual) dreaming about my own ‘ideal’ week in Venice for a first-time
in visitor (you know, on the train to work, walking to work, at work, coming
home from work, as I’m cooking dinner, as I’m washing up etc).
So here we go: I invite you
to come along with me on my ‘ideal first time trip to Venice’:
To anyone visiting Venice
for the first time, I would recommend arriving on Monday afternoon, and staying
for at
least six nights. I know, that
probably sounds like a lot of time to you, but for me, even this is scarcely
enough to see Venice, but it would be sufficient to at least see the major
monuments and experience the city.
What follows isn’t a guided
tour of Venice – there are many fine guidebooks that do the job nicely. What I’m proposing below is a suggested
itinerary for your week-long stay in Venice to help you get the most of the
city’s major sights and activities for your first-time visit.
Note:
This of course, assumes
that neither the architecture nor visual arts biennales are in session – in
which case, I’d ideally add on another two days to see as many of the
exhibition spaces in the Giardini della Biennale and external sites as
possible.
Nor does this itinerary
take into consideration major exhibitions or events that might be held during
your visit.
Day
1 - ARRIVE MONDAY AFTERNOON
Travelling from Australia,
I’ve always flown into Venice from a connecting European city. I’m sure there are cheaper ways to arrive in
Venice, but for me, it takes 24-hours just to reach Europe from Sydney, and I’m
always anxious to maximise my visiting time in Venice.
I also love, I love, I love the experience of flying into
Venice...that precise moment when the magical, enchanting jewel comes into view
far below. Seeing Venice from the air is
truly a wonderful and it always catches my breath and squeezes my heart to see
Venice again.
Inside arrivals hall at Marco
Polo airport, purchase your 7-day vaporetto ticket and your return transfer to
Venice.
Catch the Alilaguna boat to
Venice
Check-in to your hotel or
your apartment
Get out into the city to
feel Venice under your feet, in front of your eyes and surrounding all your
senses.
Go to the Accademia bridge,
climb up to the top and take in the view of the Grand Canal looking toward the
Salute.
Walk down to the Basilica
della Salute and if it’s still open, step inside quietly to enjoy its baroque
elegance and serenity. I always feel
like walking into the Salute is like walking into a motherly hug. This beautiful space has a warmth and a
welcome that is hard to imagine until you’ve actually experienced it.
It will be difficult to
tear yourself away from the cosy atmosphere off the Salute, but when you’ve had
your fill, walk a short distance to the Punta della Dogana and breathe in and
enjoy another classic Venetian view across to the Piazza San Marco, to the
island of San Giorgio Maggiore across the Giudecca canal, and watch the
vaporetti and water taxis motor past.
You really are in Venice!
As evening falls, walk back
to the Salute to catch the vaporetto down the Grand Canal. Marvel as the palazzi and churches lining the
Grand Canal slip quietly past you.
The Grand Canal from a vaporetto as the sun begins to fade |
Descend at Rialto to enjoy cichetti
(aperitifs with delicious little titbits) or an early dinner at one of the
restaurants in the bend of the Rialto – I love the view of the Grand Canal and
Antonio da Ponte’s 1588 bridge from this spot, nestled into the ‘S’ bend of the
Grand Canal.
Then, enjoy a post-prandial
stroll across the Rialto bridge and follow the amply-signed tourist route
towards Piazza San Marco. You will walk
to the Piazza past Campo San Teodoro, through Campo Manin.
At Campo Manin, you could
take a small detour and follow the signs to the ‘Scala del Bovolo’ – to see
that much photographed house in Venice with an outdoor staircase in the form of
a snail shell. You can’t get inside, you
can only stand at the gates and observe.
A detail of the Scala del Bovolo |
Onward to Campo Sant’
Angelo, Campo Santo Stefano, Campo San Maurizio, past Santa Maria del Giglio,
and Campo San Moise to finally end up in the Piazza San Marco.
And look, up ahead of you –
there is it – the Basilica di San Marco!
And there’s the Doge’s
Palace!
And the campanile! And the
clock-tower!
When you’ve had a chance to
recover, look around the rest of the buildings.
Feel the size, space and
shape of the Piazza all around you. Imagine all the lives, famous, infamous and
anonymous, that have passed around you over the centuries.
Draw a breath. Walk down to the piazzetta to savour the view
across the Bacino di San Marco to the Salute and Punta della Dogana on the
other side of the Grand Canal, to San Giorgio Maggiore and the look down the
Riva degli Schiavoni.
Enjoy a hot chocolate, an
elaborate tea service or a glass of Prosecco or a Bellini.
As you stroll home, listen
to the sound of your footseps and your voice echoing around the dark, winding,
silent streets. Hear the soft sound of
the water lapping against the sides of the canals all around you.
Sleep tight - you’re going
to wake up in Venice!
Click here to read Your first visit to Venice - Part 2/ Day 2
Click here to read Your first visit to Venice - Part 2/ Day 2
I love your passion. You are a Venetian at heart. Thanks for your blog. It's beautifully written.
ReplyDelete