Memorial to Sebastiano Venier in Campo Santa Maria Formosa

This unassuming facade is that of Palazzetto Venier (dated circa 1450-70) in Campo Santa Maria Formosa.

Palazzetto Venier, Campo Santa Maria Formosa

Is my memory correct - I feel like Farmacia dell'Orso on the ground level has been there for almost twenty years?

On the facade is memorial plaque to Sebastiano Venier, the commander of the Venetian fleet at the Battle of Lepanto.  

Plaque for Sebastiano Venier's role in the Battle of Lepanto, Palazzetto Venier, Campo Santa Maria Formosa

This famous battle took place on 7 October 1571 in the Gulf of Corinth, off the coast of Greece. It was a battle between the combined Christian forces of the Republic of Venice (who provided 109 galleys and 5,000 soldiers), the Spanish Empire (who largely funded the battle and provided 56 galleys), the Republic of Genoa (with 27 galleys), the Pope (with seven galleys) and the Order of St Stephen, Duchy of Savoy and Knights of Malta (each of whom provided three galleys).  

The Christians set off for the battle from Messina in Sicily, and the Turks from Lepanto.  After seven hours of fighting, the Christians prevailed.

The Christian forces were fighting for the security of maritime trade in the Mediterranean and the security of Christianity in continental Europe against the Ottoman Empire.  

Sebastiano Venier returned victorious and was later appointed Doge of Venice from June 1577 - March 1578.

Palazzo Donà in Campo Santa Maria Formosa

This building is one of three Donà palazzi in the Campo Santa Maria Formosa.

Palazzo Dona, Campo Santa Maria Formosa 

I always like to stand in the middle of the square and admire its gorgeous Gothic windows (the building dates from around 1460).  

Gothic windows in Campo Santa Maria Formosa, Castello

I particularly enjoy looking at its portal containing an elaborate Renaissance era shield supported by baby putti.

Portal to Palazzo Dona, Campo Santa Maria Formosa, Castello

 Here's closer look at that tympanum:

Detail of portal, Palazzo Dona, Campo Santa Maria Formosa

Campo Santa Maria Formosa

One of the largest and liveliest of the Venice's many campi is Campo Santa Maria Formosa. The church has two facades - this one, facing the campo, has a broad plain facade which was built in 1604.

Campo Santa Maria Formosa, Castello

The campanile was built from 1611 - 1688, and in between is a plain, box-like building, now an oratorio.  It was originally home to Scuola de la Purifacazione (1601) which later combined with the Scuola dei Fruttaroli in 1684.

In the background, to the left of the church, is the Renaissance Palazzo Malipiero Trevisan.
The palazzo was once home to Doge Pasqual Malipiero, the 66th Doge of Venice (serving from October 1457 to his death in May 1462).  The building is now a hotel.

Detail of the photo above, showing Palazzi Malipiero Trevisan in Campo Santa Maria Formosa

Calle del Paradiso, Castello

One morning, after downing a delicious coffee and warm, sweet pastry at Rosa Salva (ok, so maybe it was two of each), we headed off into the streets of Venice for another day of walking and looking.  

We walked across the Ponte dei Preti off the Campo Santa Maria Formosa and looked up to find this arch – the Arco del Paradiso.

Nizioletto - Ponte dei Preti near Campo Santa Maria Formosa

Arco del Paradiso, Castello, Venice (from the Ponte dei Preti)

 The arch dates from the early 15^th century and commemorates the marriage between a Foscari and a Mocenigo, and bears both family’s arms as well as a relief of the Madonna della Misericordia.  Twenty-six houses in this calle – the Calle del Paradiso – formed part of the marriage settlement.  

The calle itself is one of the best preserved medieval streets in Venice.

The Arco del Paradiso in the Calle del Paradiso

The narrow, short street comprises two parallel blocks, joined at the east end by the Arco del Paradiso.  

The ground floor was intended for shops and workshops, with a single storey of accommodation above, supported by barbacani.

The Calle del Paradiso, Castello

Here's a closer look at the barbacani:

Detail of the barbacani - supporting structures in the Calle del Paradiso

And another view of the barbacani and the street signs:

Street signs in the Calle del Paradiso, Castello

According to Richard Goy’s trusty Venice. An Architectural Guide, the section toward the bridge contains some 13^th century material as well as later medieval parts, whilst the section of the street toward the Salizzada San Lio is largely 16^th century.

Toward the Salizzada San Lio end of the street is one of Venice’s many fine bookshops.  This one, Editrice Filippi, specializes in hard-to-find Venice titles in Italian and other languages.  I’ve spent many happy hours examining its shop windows and deciding what other piece of clothing I can jettison in favour of another tome. 

Shop window of Editrice Filippi, Calle del Paradiso, Castello

On my last visit to Venice, we travelled to eight cities in three weeks, each of us carrying one small cabin bag on wheels.  I regretfully decided there was no way I could fit Alvise Zorzi’s comprehensive, gorgeously illustrated Venezia Scomparsa in my small bag, nor nonchalantly waltz through check-in with such a heavy book in my luggage. 

Luckily, the bookshop kindly posted it to me.