Looking up at San Vidal

I wonder how many times I've walked past this sculpture of San Vidal (San Vitale), on my way to and from the Accademia bridge?

Looking up at San Vidal and the campanile 

The church was founded in 1084, re-built in the twelfth century and again from 1696-1700.  The facade was finally completed from 1734-7.  The church has been used for concerts and exhibitions for as long as I can remember, and also contains a work by Carpaccio.

Looking at the side of San Vidal and the nizioletto

View from the Accademia bridge

Whenever I stand on the Accademia bridge, the first object that my eye will seek out is the dear, familiar, flat roofline of the Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, the 'unfinished palazzo' and home of my beloved Peggy Guggenheim Collection.

Once I've had my fill, I'll let my attention wander to the graceful dome of the Basilica della Salute and the Dogana del Mar beyond.

And finally, I'll notice the brightly coloured patterns of the typically Venetian mooring posts.

View from the Accademia bridge

A working city, just like any other

When you stand on the summit of the Accademia bridge, taking in that iconic view down the Grand Canal towards the Basilica della Salute and the Dogana del Mar, it's easy to forget that you're not simply standing in a beautiful tableaux, but standing in a working city.

Look down below: those people on the vaporetti...some of them might actually be locals, simply trying to do their daily shopping, collect their children or get to work, despite the thronging of tourists and day-trippers all around them.  Look at those little vessels racing underneath you...perhaps there is a police boat, or a fire boat, on its way to an emergency.

And look at this boat, prosaically ferrying television sets and wicker chairs under the watchful eager gaze of this tourist.

Moving goods on the Grand Canal

The grace of a gondola

I stood on the summit of the Accademia bridge, and drank in that iconic view of the Grand Canal, sweeping down towards the serene, welcoming beauty of the Salute.  

The sun was shining, and I listened to the chatter of other tourists sweeping up and down the broad steps of the bridge, stopping to admire, and photograph and smile.  

I lazily scanned the traffic passing beneath the bridge and in the distance, I enjoyed watching the skill of the gondolier as he gracefully steered his elegant little black vessel across the canal.

View from the Accademia bridge

Your first visit to Venice – a suggested week-long itinerary - Part 1 - Day 1

A colleague at work recently departed for her first visit to Venice.  Of the two of us, I can’t tell who was more excited – possibly me!  I put together a suggested itinerary for her trip, and I’m eagerly awaiting her return to hear about her experience of Venice.

So I’ve been doing (even more than usual) dreaming about my own ‘ideal’ week in Venice for a first-time in visitor (you know, on the train to work, walking to work, at work, coming home from work, as I’m cooking dinner, as I’m washing up etc).

So here we go: I invite you to come along with me on my ‘ideal first time trip to Venice’:

To anyone visiting Venice for the first time, I would recommend arriving on Monday afternoon, and staying for at least six nights.  I know, that probably sounds like a lot of time to you, but for me, even this is scarcely enough to see Venice, but it would be sufficient to at least see the major monuments and experience the city. 

What follows isn’t a guided tour of Venice – there are many fine guidebooks that do the job nicely.  What I’m proposing below is a suggested itinerary for your week-long stay in Venice to help you get the most of the city’s major sights and activities for your first-time visit.

Note:

This of course, assumes that neither the architecture nor visual arts biennales are in session – in which case, I’d ideally add on another two days to see as many of the exhibition spaces in the Giardini della Biennale and external sites as possible. 

Nor does this itinerary take into consideration major exhibitions or events that might be held during your visit.

Day 1 - ARRIVE MONDAY AFTERNOON

Travelling from Australia, I’ve always flown into Venice from a connecting European city.  I’m sure there are cheaper ways to arrive in Venice, but for me, it takes 24-hours just to reach Europe from Sydney, and I’m always anxious to maximise my visiting time in Venice.

I also love, I love, I love the experience of flying into Venice...that precise moment when the magical, enchanting jewel comes into view far below.  Seeing Venice from the air is truly a wonderful and it always catches my breath and squeezes my heart to see Venice again.

Inside arrivals hall at Marco Polo airport, purchase your 7-day vaporetto ticket and your return transfer to Venice.

Catch the Alilaguna boat to Venice

Check-in to your hotel or your apartment

Get out into the city to feel Venice under your feet, in front of your eyes and surrounding all your senses.

Go to the Accademia bridge, climb up to the top and take in the view of the Grand Canal looking toward the Salute. 

Walk down to the Basilica della Salute and if it’s still open, step inside quietly to enjoy its baroque elegance and serenity.  I always feel like walking into the Salute is like walking into a motherly hug.  This beautiful space has a warmth and a welcome that is hard to imagine until you’ve actually experienced it.

It will be difficult to tear yourself away from the cosy atmosphere off the Salute, but when you’ve had your fill, walk a short distance to the Punta della Dogana and breathe in and enjoy another classic Venetian view across to the Piazza San Marco, to the island of San Giorgio Maggiore across the Giudecca canal, and watch the vaporetti and water taxis motor past. 

You really are in Venice!

As evening falls, walk back to the Salute to catch the vaporetto down the Grand Canal.  Marvel as the palazzi and churches lining the Grand Canal slip quietly past you.

The Grand Canal from a vaporetto as the sun begins to fade

Descend at Rialto to enjoy cichetti (aperitifs with delicious little titbits) or an early dinner at one of the restaurants in the bend of the Rialto – I love the view of the Grand Canal and Antonio da Ponte’s 1588 bridge from this spot, nestled into the ‘S’ bend of the Grand Canal.

Then, enjoy a post-prandial stroll across the Rialto bridge and follow the amply-signed tourist route towards Piazza San Marco.  You will walk to the Piazza past Campo San Teodoro, through Campo Manin.

At Campo Manin, you could take a small detour and follow the signs to the ‘Scala del Bovolo’ – to see that much photographed house in Venice with an outdoor staircase in the form of a snail shell.  You can’t get inside, you can only stand at the gates and observe.

A detail of the Scala del Bovolo

Onward to Campo Sant’ Angelo, Campo Santo Stefano, Campo San Maurizio, past Santa Maria del Giglio, and Campo San Moise to finally end up in the Piazza San Marco. 

And look, up ahead of you – there is it – the Basilica di San Marco! 

And there’s the Doge’s Palace!

And the campanile! And the clock-tower!

When you’ve had a chance to recover, look around the rest of the buildings. 

Feel the size, space and shape of the Piazza all around you. Imagine all the lives, famous, infamous and anonymous, that have passed around you over the centuries. 

Draw a breath.  Walk down to the piazzetta to savour the view across the Bacino di San Marco to the Salute and Punta della Dogana on the other side of the Grand Canal, to San Giorgio Maggiore and the look down the Riva degli Schiavoni.

Walk back toward CaffeFlorian, and depending on the weather and your preference, sit down inside one of the ornate rooms or outside in the open-air with the band. 

Enjoy a hot chocolate, an elaborate tea service or a glass of Prosecco or a Bellini.

As you stroll home, listen to the sound of your footseps and your voice echoing around the dark, winding, silent streets.  Hear the soft sound of the water lapping against the sides of the canals all around you. 

Sleep tight - you’re going to wake up in Venice!

Click here to read Your first visit to Venice - Part 2/ Day 2

Accademia Bridge

A photosharing website, Sightsmap.com, recently reported that the Accademia Bridge is Venice’s most photographed sight (for a reference to the report, read this link from the UK Telegraph).  

I must admit that I'm skeptical about this report – I could have sworn that the depths of the Piazza San Marco, or the Palazzo Ducale, or the golden domes of the Basilica would trump the Accademia Bridge, especially since the hordes of tourists seem to head straight to the Piazza. 

The classic view down the Grand Canal toward the Salute from the Accademia Bridge is gorgeous and much celebrated, but the bridge in itself is not particularly photogenic.  

This is a view of the bridge from the Dorsoduro end...do you see what I mean?

View of the Accademia Bridge, seen from the Dorsoduro side.  Photograph by Capturing Venice.

But I really love the plain, practical solidity of the Accademia bridge.  

Its steps are easy to climb - just the right height, just the right width (unlike the new Calatrava bridge at the other end of town upon which you risk your limbs as you descend its slippery, reflective and uneven steps).

I love the sturdiness and homeliness of the wood of the Accademia bridge.  

I love walking up the Accademia bridge, pressing the palm of my hand flat against the broad, smooth balustrade.  

Balustrade of the Accademia Bridge.  Photograph by Capturing Venice.

I love standing at the base of the Accademia bridge on the San Marco side, and spotting my favourite lion in the garden of the Palazzo Cavallo-Franchetti (I've written about him previously - you can see a photo of him by clicking here).

I love standing on the Accademia bridge and counting the number of painted wooden mooring poles that line the edges of the Grand Canal.  

I love watching the vaporetti and motor boats coming and going beneath the bridge.

I love standing on the bridge and admiring the skill of the gondoliers as they maneuver their beautifully elegant vessels around the motor traffic.

I love it when I get high enough on the bridge to look down the Grand Canal and see the familiar flat rooftop of the Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, home of the Peggy Guggenheim Collection.

And I love the reward of this view when you reach the top of the bridge. 

View of the Grand Canal from the top of the Accademia Bridge in Venice. Photograph by Capturing Venice.

The Accademia Bridge is one of four bridges that span the Grand Canal, and provides access from the Campo San Vidal (in San Marco) across to Campo della Carità and the Accademia di Belli Arti di Venezia (in Dorsoduro).  

The first bridge was a steel structure was designed by the English firm, Alfred Neville in 1854.  A temporary wooden bridge (designed by Eugenio Miozzi) was erected in 1933, and a replica of this wooden bridge was constructed in 1985. 

My favourite (overgrown) lion in Venice

In August 2012, I posted a photo of my favourite lion in Venice (you can read about him here: http://capturingvenice.blogspot.com.au/2012/08/my-favourite-lion.html).

The little guy lives at the Palazzo Cavalli-Franchetti at the base of the Accademia bridge (on the Campo Santo Stefano side of the bridge).  When I went back to see him this year (in October 2013), he was overgrown and barely visible.

He is so tantalisingly close:  it always feels like if I was a just a little bit taller or had longer arms, I could lean over the broad railing of the bridge to reach out and touch him.

Here's a shot of a companion lion who lives around the corner on the Campo San Vidal side of the palazzo.

Early morning vaporetto

I love early mornings in Venice, and I love the serenity and stateliness of the vaporetto chugging its way up the Grand Canal in the morning light. 

I took this photo standing on the Accademia bridge in 2007, and looking at it, I remember the familiar, solid, smooth feel of the balustrade of the bridge as I leaned over it, and the quiet of the morning.

Whenever I stand on the bridge, I am always looking for the Salute and the Peggy Guggenheim Collection.  Looking at this photograph again, I noticed for the first time that you can see mosaics glinting in the sun.

I went to my trusty guide, The Grand Canal (Umberto Franzoi) and discovered that the mosaics belong to the Palazzo Barbarigo, originally a 16^th century building that stands alongside Campo San Vio in Dorsoduro.  The palazzo was headquarters for Pauly & C, Compagnia Venezia Murano, which was founded in 1866.  The mosaics were applied by Giulio Carlini (1830-37), and reference the Basilica. 

 

My favourite lion

I have a soft spot for a few lions in Venice, but this little guy is hands-down my favourite. 
He lives on the exterior garden wall of the Palazzo Cavalli-Franchetti, at the foot of the Accademia bridge (on the Campo Santo Stefano side of the Grand Canal). 



Photo by Capturing Venice

The Palazzo Cavalli-Franchetti was originally built in 1565, and was extensively improved during the 19^th century.  Amongst its 19^th century owners was Archduke Frederick Ferdinand of Austria, who wanted to give it a more prominent Habsburg presence along the Grand Canal.  The archduke died prematurely in 1847 (and was unmarried) and the palazzo was bought by Henri, Comte de Chambord.  In 1878, it changed hands again and its new owner, Baron Raimondo Franchetti commissioned further works by architect Camillo Boito who built the grand staircase. 

Since 1999, the building has housed the Istituto Veneto di Scienze, Lettere e Arti which hosts regular cultural events.